For reference: notes from http://oldbikeblog.blogspot.co.uk/2008/
Screw the spindle into the hub until it is finger-tight, then slacken it off by half a turn.
Screw the adjuster barrel back on to connect the chain to the gear cable. The chain should be completely slack in high gear, and in low gear you should be able to pull a tiny bit more chain out of the hub: dead taut is too tight.
Freewheel in high gear means the cable is too tight. Freewheel in middle or bottom gear means the cable is too loose. If you hold the gear lever halfway between middle and high gear, the bicycle should freewheel without engaging any gear.
(Unfortunately these are the same notes I used to set it up last time, and it's breaking out of middle gear again!)
Stopping in front of the 'advanced stop line' (because it's 'safer'?) and hence in front of the traffic lights, so that they have no idea when the lights have actually changed until a stream of motor traffic comes past them. Along with any other cyclists who have actually stopped at the traffic lights and are thus able to see their colour properly...
Still, in terms of annoying behaviour, this is a minor one.
By some quirk of the British summer, the rain cleared to bright sunshine within about five seconds of my completing this (lengthy) dressing process; and, although towering purple clouds were visible both behind and before me in the sky along the road, I proceeded to cycle from start to finish in my own personal little travelling spotlight of hot sun, feeling decidedly over-equipped! However, the waterproof overshoes were invaluable given the large number of gigantic puddles through which I still had to travel...
Perhaps this is a good place to note that I managed to reset my cycle computer again while trying to zero the journey time counter; an indication of how long it was since I had last used it is that not only had I forgotten how to work the controls, but that I only had a total of about a hundred miles 'on the clock' since the previous accidental reset. I have now accumulated almost that much again in the course of the few weeks since this happened.
In the process of resetting all the data from the defaults all over again, I discovered (presumably all over again) that I actually appear to have 28-inch wheels on this machine. Given that it's a small frame I'm surprised; it's possible that they are 27-inch with big tyres on.
[Edit: Yes, I see I was marvelling at this fact the last time I managed to reset the wretched cycle computer...)
Mind you, I'm pretty sure the wheel size (selected from a limited number of pre-sets) was wrong: I did an actual measured rotation using high-tec chalk marks on the ground, which gave a wheel circumference of 2175 mm (equivalent to a 27.25" wheel). I've been running on a pre-set of 26"!
The tyres are printed with a 28" x 1 3/8" size, so I'd guess that the wheels on my small-frame road bike really are larger than I thought - that's what you get for riding on 'trail tyres'. (Spec for the bike is 700c rims, according to the manufacturer, but what counts in calculating distance travelled is the actual outer circumference of the tyre...)
Time to change the clock on my cycle computer again... which, since I managed accidentally to reset the mileage the last time the clocks changed, gives me an incidental measure of how far I have cycled in six months.
755 miles. Not terribly impressive -- I would have guessed I did about 3,000 miles a year, but obviously it's more like half that...
Admittedly that tally includes an entirely atypical month when I was away and/or not cycling at all (and it took me a few trips to get back into condition after that), but even so I've evidently been exaggerating my travels!
(It wasn't a true reading anyhow, since it only reflects the elapsed mileage since the battery was last changed; but it does represent several years of travel!)
Another reason to get annoyed with Summer Time....